ABOUT ME:
I’m a 3 in 1 toolkit: a bag, vest and an apron all in one!
On my page you will learn how to make your very own WORK VEST/BAG combo so that you can carry all of your most prized tools everywhere you go!
Follow directions step by step, stay focused, work smart not hard, you don’t want to be sewing into the early hours, heck no! Nobody has time for that.
LABOUR TIME:
Approximately 45 hours.
MATERIALS LIST:
An abundance of secondhand + deadstock fabrics sourced from Etsy and eBay, synthetic polyester, cotton, wool, linen, hemp, cotton poplin, synthetic interfacing, metal keyring, safety pins, polyester, plastic zippers, brass and nickel plated grommets, metal and nickel plated buckles, cotton embroidery thread, polyester sewing thread, webbing and latex
I also have this chart you can click on if you would like further detail:
This is a guide for the vest/bag part of the TOOLKIT, it can be manipulated and changed to your liking. Some pockets will be provided but we encourage you to tailor the pockets to your own wants and needs. For instance, the pockets on WORK are specifically made for sewing and craft labour with special pockets for snips, needles, crochet hooks etc. Your pockets can be for whatever YOU need, to optimise efficiency for your whatever/however you work. Think about what you would like a pocket for: a power bar, cooking utensils, power tools.. the choices are endless!!!
The TOOLKIT consists of two sides that are connected by a buckled centre and two straps on the back. Each side of the vest is also a bag consisting of a zippered opening for stashing things inside. He best can be unhooked in the middle with one side stashed into the other.
These instructions do NOT include the apron extension.
Apologies, this will be included at a later date!
The TOOLKIT consists of two sides that are connected by a buckled centre and two straps on the back. Each side of the vest is also a bag consisting of a zippered opening for stashing things inside. He best can be unhooked in the middle with one side stashed into the other.
These instructions do NOT include the apron extension.
Apologies, this will be included at a later date!
PRINT A4 - 100% Scale
Some of the pattern may be cut off due to standard printer bleed settings (typically 5mm) This is okay! DO NOT TRIM or IGNORE the bleed.
Tape the full sheets of the paper pattern edge-to-edge to match below image:
Cut pieces out along the cut line (all pieces have a 1cm seam allowance included)
MATERIALS
• Approx 1m Fabric
• 2x 20cm exposed closed-end zippers
• 1m Interfacing (Optional)
• 1/2m Webbing: 6x6cm pieces
• 5 (3-4cm wide) x Side realise buckles
• 80cm x 2 Strap material: can be fabric, webbing or knit
FABRIC:
We recommend to use wovens so that the fabric keeps its shape. This could be any fabrication like cotton, wool, and linen. We used a tactical fabric that is definitely synthetic but be wary of any fabric that is slinky and slidey. Make sure your fabric is sturdy so that it’s not only easier to work with but also retains its shape as a tactical vest.
Wovens: Wovens are fabrics that have been made on a loom and have warp and weft threads that are…well…woven together. For instance, your bedsheet is a woven.
Interfacing: If your fabric feels a bit flimsy or thin, you use interfacing to stiffen it up and give it more structure. Interfacing should be the type that you iron on and will stick to the wrong side of the fabric so that it is hidden on the inside.
Exposed close-end zippers: You can use any type of zipper for this as long as the end is closed. Make sure the measurement fits within the notches. For this pattern it is best to get a 20cm long zipper but you can go a bit smaller if you wish. You could also use metal toothed zips or invisible zips if you’re feeling fancy
Webbing: This will be used to attached your buckles since you won’t be able to sew the buckles directly on the garment. Ensure that your webbing is the same width as your buckle or slightly smaller. You will need to prep this by cutting 6cm pieces 4 times. They will later be folded in half used as a loop.
Buckles: These can be metal or plastic. We used 3.5cm wide buckles however you can choose whatever size you like (3-4cm is a good safe size). And remember to match your webbing width to your buckle width so that it loops easily around the buckle bar.
Strap material: Can be made out of anything, strips of fabric, or webbing. They can be knitted or crocheted and even made out of latex. It’s entirely up to you and how you choose to carry work.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS:
Start by making your pockets. We recommend starting with rectangles or squares (size of your choice)
Main body: 2 of these will serve as the front (where the pockets will go) and 2 as the back. The front and back will be connected by another assemblage of pieces that will give it the 3D shape.
MAKING THE POCKETS
- Cut pockets out to the desired size ensure you’re adding 1cm extra along the perimeter of the pieces. Determine the top or opening of the pocket, fold over that edge and iron it down so it is a clean finish. Sew along the edge of the fold.
- Cargo pocket (optional): Fold, iron and stitch down the top edge of the pocket. On the pocket piece you will notice a top edge that is a straight line and the bottom which has two boxed corners (like square cut outs). Iron down the seam allowance on all 3 sides. With right sides together, join the boxed corners and stitch it down (this will make a 3D shape). Iron down where the fabric folds naturally. Now you will have a pocket that looks like a box. Place and pin it down wherever you like and stitch along the edge to attach. Do this with all of your pockets on both front pieces (or one!) until you’re happy with it. Tip: when stitching your pockets avoid the edges of the main body. Keep the pockets away from the edge of the vest by at least 2cm.
ASSEMBLING BUCKLES
You will need to attach each buckle to some webbing or fabric that will be stitched into the vest. We used webbing that was the same width as the buckle, easily wrapping itself around the buckle bar. If you haven’t already, cut 6 pieces of webbing at 5-6cm in length each.
- Assembling the buckle: For the front buckle, slide a piece of webbing through each side of the buckle, fold it in half and stitch it down along the cut edges. Set aside.
- Each buckle has two sides, one side is the prong and the other side is hollow where the prong will clasp into. For this step take the remaining 4 buckles, unclamp them if they are connected and separate the prong sides from the hollow sides. The top and side panels will have buckles but remember to make sure that you use the same side of the buckle all around the body of your vest. We used the hollow sides of the buckles on the vest and the prong side on the straps. This is only to keep the making process consistent and the straps interchangeable, you will understand what this means later. Then, take the 4 hollow sides and repeat step 3 wrap the webbing around the buckle bar folding it in half and stitching along the edge.
*At this point you should be left with 4 prong sides of the buckles, as they will be connected to the straps they don’t need webbing*
ASSEMBLING THE FACING EXTENSIONS
- Now we’re going to assemble the facing extensions which will later be stitched on the perimeter of the main body of the vest. This is the part that gives it that 3D look. Right sides together: Stitch the bottom edge of the zipper facing with the shorter edge of the facing extension (short), matching notches. Then, stitch the other end of facing extension (short) to the smaller edge of the facing extension (long). Now, you should have a really long piece that resembles an elongated house. Repeat the same step for the other side.
THE ZIPPER
- It is now time to install the zipper. One side of the zipper will connect to the front body with the pockets and the other side will connect to the zipper facing which is now assembled with the facing extensions. First, attach the zipper to the body: face down or right sides together. Line the zipper with the diagonal line marked zipper, between the notches. With right sides together line up the zipper edge with the side edge of the zipper facing in between the notches. Stitch it down as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Repeat on the other side.
CONNECTING THE PIECES TOGETHER
- Now that the zipper is attached, it’s time to sew there facing extension all the way around the main body of the vest. The entire facing extension should fit along the perimeter, ending at the top. It does not wrap around the top edge. You will understand what this means if all of your notches are matched correctly. Stitch down at 1cm seam allowance all around leaving the top edge raw. Repeat on the other side.
- Before attaching the back piece you will construct the side panels that the straps will later attach to. The side panel consists of 4 cut pieces that get paired and stitched together leaving you with 2 pieces, one for each side of the vest. When lining them up, place one of the buckle-webbing pieces FACE DOWN lining up the raw edge of the side panel where the (SYMBOL) is placed. Lay the other side panel on top, face down, right sides together. Stitch down the two longer sides and the side with the buckle leaving the final side unstitched. For clarification, te buckle should be sandwiched between both side panel pieces.
- Using the unstitched side, flip the piece right side out and iron flat. Topstitch the 3 sewn sides.
- Repeat step 2-3 with the other side panel.
FINISHING THE MAIN BODY
- The main body has four cut pieces (2 front and 2 back) two of which are covered in pockets (FRONT). The back pieces are plain and will be stitched to the other side of your facing extension, in the same way you sewed the front piece. Before attaching the back piece, you will need to line up the side panels and centre front buckle. (The top buckle will be attached later)
- Lay the two front main body pieces in front of you facing up: we will work with one side and then repeat the same on the other side.
- SIDE PANEL: lay it on top of the main front body matching the SYMBOL. The buckle should be face down. The raw edges should be lined up flush together. *to check that you’ve lined it up correctly make sure the side panel is curving UP not DOWN.
- FRONT CENTRE BUCKLE: this is the first buckle you prepped and set aside. Unclamp the front buckle, choose a side and line it up with the SYMBOL on the front centre piece. Line up the buckle face down. The raw edge of webbing should match flush with the edge of the fabric.
- Now you can assemble the back of the vest. Line it up to the front with right sides together. This will sandwich the side panel and front buckle inside. Stitch at 1cm seam allowance all the way around. Flip right side out using the zipper opening.
- TOP BUCKLE: this one is tricky! Right now your vest is almost entirely assembled. The top edge of the main body should be raw, this is where the top buckle will go. Face down, slide the buckle inside the vest sandwiched between the front body and the facing extension. Pin in place . Along that edge you will have some extra fabric, dont worry that’s normal. Stitch along that edge at 1cm seam allowance. Trim the corners and flip right side out. Take the piece that’s extending over and fold it toward the back edge to edge. Bar tack in place.
- *Repeat steps 2-6 with the other side of the vest*
- Now you will have a finished vest with all the connecting buckles assembled. The final step is the straps. You can decide how long you want them but we recommend to make your straps 80cm by 4cm (approx the width of your buckles). You can crochet or knit your straps or alternatively use webbing if you want to optimise your time. Prepare 2 straps to the desired length. Wrap each end around your 4 remaining buckles and stitch them down. Now, clasp the straps into your vest so that they form an X on that back.
AND VOILA!
That wasn’t so hard was it?
ADD ONS: If you want a challenge and are keen to add more to the vest, consider the following:
Add some eyelets to the bottom of your vest with some binder rings to the eyelet hole. From here you can add any desired attachment! This could be an apron, more pockets, skirt, bags, once again, the options are limitless!